Archive for February, 2008

Feb 27 2008

Small hands on deck

Published by Anna under Lessons Learned, Passages, People, Problems

SolMate found herself ashore for more than a week: ample time to let the new arrivals settle in and acquaint themselves with the environs.

We find ourselves at the spanky new marina in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, a town whose community has made great efforts to resist the encroachment of PV and all that comes with a Big Box metropolis.

The marina appears to be a crack in the armour, and luckily we have experienced this tranquil haven before it may be too late…The tranquility was briefly disrupted this morning however, as Lorraine and I shopped the curios at the local Wednesday Tianguias (street market), when sirens disturbed the market rhythms and a local policia cruiser appeared.

Vague chanting in the distance…I poked my head down Marlin street and saw little, though the voices grew louder…it sounded like…a protest!

student protesters

Eager to witness my first in Mexico, I looked for the demonstrators and had to lower my gaze from the horizon: these were small citizens.

can you read their signs?

Kindergarteners, in fact; it seems the local children were fed up with junk food, street litter, and the lack of fresh fruit and vegetables in their diet, and had taken to the streets. 100 of them, all with placards raised and the stern expressions of civic indignation. Perhaps this town may survive afterall…

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Feb 25 2008

The people you meet

Published by Mark under People

This is John, skipper of Avocet, hailing from Redondo Beach, CA.

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I wish I could fill you in on some personal details but I did not get a chance to interrogate him in my usual manner. He suddenly had to leave with his wife to tend to his elderly mother and all that is left of his presence in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is his elegant, trim sailboat and this blog entry.

And of course an amazing moment a week ago when he sailed his 41 foot sloop into dock. No engine, no reverse gear, no brake – his his marvelous boat-handling ability. More about this later.

I first met John when he dropped by SolMate shortly after we had arrived here at Marina Riviera Nayarit. He wanted to confirm that our cutter was in fact a Valiant 40 and so often as these conversations start about boats, there’s a typical boyish dog-sniffing that goes on about whose is bigger, better, etc.

Not with John. He just smiled when I answered his question and let him know I am completely new at this cruising thing and have a lot to learn.

“So do I, ” he said with the barest hint of a smile. “I’ve been doing this for 21 years and there’s a lot more to learn.”

It was a kind response, but the sincerity of it did not really strike me until a few days later, when I saw him on his foredeck raising his mainsail.

Now for Wendy and I on SolMate, raising our main is a two-person job, one of whom has the mechanical advantage of a winch with a handle that imparts tremendous pull on the halyard.

But there was John, without a shirt on, pulling up his sail with powerful, hand over hand sweep. It was like watching an Olympic event like the hammer throw – all muscle, graceful, impressive – but raising a sail at the dock?

A few minutes later, John and his wife (sorry! I have forgotten her name) had slickly sailed away from the dock without the benefit of the engine. It was the first time I had seen such a thing since my early introduction to sailing in San Diego, in 1960, when I went out on a new neighbor’s PC – a 30′ sloop that did not HAVE an engine. You had to know how to get home safely by sailing into the dock, a maneuver that never failed to impress me.

So a few hours after he left the dock, I was wondering whether he would sail back in – much more difficult than sailing away. Remember sailboats do not have a brake – except the engine’s reverse gear, and an anchor. Neither is a particularly elegant way to return to dockside (although I have seen many remarkably skillful pilots at their helms).

John brought Avocet to rest in the slip as quietly and fusslessly as a motorcycle cop whipping out his ticket book.

And I remembered his incredibly modest statement that he still had “a lot more to learn.”

John has offered to take me out and I am still looking forward to that treat.

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Feb 22 2008

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle (and our new goodies)

Published by Mark under People, Problems, Things & Such

20°44.865′ N -105°22.7 W

At this precise global position (obtained from our GPS at our navigation station), recent arrival Anna Z. B. Schneider demonstrates our new acquisitions, a rail-mounted BBQ and our outboard engine mount (not shown is the new anchor mount, port side).

Anna presents

Also not shown is Lorraine Beattie, who provided custody and care of the items as several international borders, security checkpoints, and various officials were confronted and suborned with efficient dispatch.

Our thanks to Lorraine and Anna – but we should not forget our diligent son Simon (shown previously) who provided general factotum services in the provision of said items. Altogether a successful mission!

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Feb 18 2008

Bye to Simon, hello Anna and Lorraine

Published by Mark under People, Places

20°44.865 N -105°22.7 W

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[sniffsniff] and [yahoo!] – In the space of two days we say goodbye to Simon and welcome Anna and Lorraine to our perch at Marina Riviera Nayarit. After getting SolMate nice and tidy and tied up on the starboard side (favorite) we walk Simon up to the main highway to Puerto Vallarta and put him on the bus.

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Ah well. Out with the old, in with the new!

We get ready for the replacement crew, daughter Anna and Anna’s grandmother, Lorraine. Since the weather is heating up here in Bahia Banderas, we decide to put up the “conestoga” awning and this is what SolMate looks like under the ShadeTree:
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La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is a calm little place with cobblestone streets and most buildings are one or two stories.

Businesses are mixed in with residences and the only difference is that the businesses have signs in front – it’s all such a human scale; no franchise monstrosities, nothing out of context. Here a woman selling vegetables out of a pickup lets her sons pose for our camera:

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This is Guillermo the Diver. He cleaned the bottom of our boat.

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This morning we were woken up by pot-banging and singing led by the chef of the new restaurant above the “La Cruz Yacht Club”. The food is pretty good, according to my crew.

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Finally – here are Lorraine and Anna at bedtime – don’t they look settled in???

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